Where is food criticism headed today? In Pollenzo a conference between gastronomy and media studies | 2–3 October 2025

Where is food criticism headed today? At the University of Gastronomic Sciences of Pollenzo, a conference between gastronomy and media studies | 2–3 October 2025

Pollenzo, 26 September 2025 – On 2 and 3 October 2025, the University of Gastronomic Sciences of Pollenzo will host the conference “What is criticism today, and where is it? A dialogue between gastronomy and media studies”, a cross-disciplinary moment of reflection bringing together critics, researchers, journalists, and academics to explore the present and future of food criticism within the contemporary media landscape.

Organised as part of the PRIN 2022 PNRR GOLA project – Representation of gastronomic culture, nutrition and food in the Italian media system. Stardom, material culture, taste (1954–1990) – the event examines the value and role of authority in criticism, the transformation of expert figures, and the evolution of persuasive rhetoric in food discourse.

Thursday 2 October

3:00 PM – Institutional greetings by Rector Nicola Perullo

3:15 PM – Introduction to the GOLA project and the conference by Giulia Muggeo and Gabriele Rigola

3:30–4:30 PM Presentation by Lisa Abend and Marco Bolasco
Chair: Ottavia Casagrande
The star system, awards, and institutional recognitions in the world of gastronomy: are they outdated, or just in poor shape? (In Italian and English with simultaneous translation)

4:45–5:45 PM
Roy Menarini and Nicola Perullo
Chair: Gabriele Rigola
Film criticism and food criticism in the 21st century: who are the experts today?

Friday 3 October

9:30–10:30 AM - Leila Salimbeni and Michele Fino
Chair: Luca Antoniazzi
Critics, consultants, the market: differences to clarify, redefine, or overcome?

10:45–11:45 AM
Andrea Grignaffini and Matteo Galello
Chair: Nicola Perullo
Writing about food and wine: affinities, differences, perspectives

11:45 AM–12:30 PM
Final discussion and closing remarks