09 May 2015
As a student at the La Scuola di Cucina of Pollenzo, I am currently on an internship with the Oneto family at Ristorante U Giancu in Rapallo, Italy. The restaurant is located in the mountains above Genoa, surrounded by olive trees and a large cultivated garden for daily foraging. Known for it's drawings of comics covering almost every inch of wall space, the atmosphere is lively, colorful and incredibly welcoming. Many years ago Chef Fausto began a tradition of collecting hats. Over 300 caps now line the stairs and he changes them often throughout the evening, leaving guests wondering "what will come next"?
Our days begin at 8 AM with a shot of espresso and bread baking; rolls, foccacia, grissini and cakes to start our day. A mid morning snack of foccacia fresh from the oven is accompanied by espresso number two. The family owned business has been in operation for over 40 years, run by Chef Fausto,and his two sons Emanuele and Martino. Both bring their own interests to the business; Emanuale with his love of beer and hand made gelato and Martino is the keeper of the keys to the Cantina; the wine cellar featuring over 500 labels! Martino is the in house sommelier and curator of the eclectic wine list. He is a lover of Pinot Nero and a good bubbly every now and then. There is also a small brewery onsite called Galhop, where Emanuele brews his own artisanal beers for the restaurant. He is an avid fan of American IPA's!
The menu is seasonal and often a farmer or forager will pop in the back door in the early mornings with eggs, fresh milk, goat cheese, herbs and wild greens. The dialect here is thick and I listen for the verbs and some key nouns to piece together their communications. "Piano, piano", slowly, slowly, I am learning the language. A small herd of cows on the property provide us with some of the milk and cheese for the restaurant. The cows are taken care of by farmer Simone and fed lovingly by Fausto's two year old granddaughter Matilda. She visits the kitchen often with her mother for a slice of warm foccacia; putting a smile on everyone's face with her sense of humor and two year old antics. "Ciao tutti" she says with a toothy smile and a head of golden curls.
By mid morning we begin all of the soups, sauces, fillings for quiches, pasta dough and stuffing for the variety of hand filled, fresh pastas. The music is loud; often 1970's hits, Tom Waits, old school jazz, sometimes a show tune or two, this morning it was the musical Hair! We all have our jobs to do with Chef Fausto as the leader of the pack; making jokes, keeping the mood lively but very well organized. My co-workers are helpful and quick to answer my many questions; sous chef Stefania, her right hand gal Elise, Fausto and I tackle the daily prep list left from the night before. Dear Rosa oversees the pasta making.She has been working here since the beginning and can whip out gnocchi faster than I have ever seen! Pasta made with love for the past few decades; she guides me in the art of all things made with dough. The restaurant focuses on fresh, vegetable driven dishes with Secondi courses featuring lamb, chicken, pork and beef. The meats we trim with care and often rub with a mixture of fresh garden herbs before roasting or braising. Also as a Secondi, the famous " prebuggiun". A large salad of wildflowers and mountain greens that has been on the menu since 1989.
A break in the afternoon before dinner service, to edit the menu for the evening, take reservations, finish up any morning tasks left to linger. I often enjoy lunches with the family at their home. Everyone lives onsite in a collection of houses on the hillside behind the restaurant.
Our staff meal starts at 7 PM, everyone gathers around the table to talk about the evening ahead and enjoy a hot meal and glass of wine! The conversation is fast, with many people talking at once, I hang on for dear life hoping for a verb or two to figure out what is being said. The staff is kind and eager to speak English, as I am trying to learn Italian. We laugh a lot, when all else fails, we resort to hand gestures and sound effects. Dinner service begins at 8 PM and we report to the kitchen for our delegated tasks; mine is often the antipasti station or mastering the art of fried onion fritters 🙂 I feel very welcome here, like I am quickly becoming part of the U Giancu legacy.
