Regenerating Gastronomy through an Interdisciplinary Approach in the Philippines

We live in a society that is increasingly aware of the need to produce, buy, consume, and dispose of responsibly with respect to our environment. This challenge, while noble, can seem overwhelming. And it is. However, in my experience, addressing it from an interdisciplinary perspective is perhaps the most effective and efficient way to generate results. This is exactly what we are achieving at Casa Kaos, the gastronomic platform behind Roots, a casual dining concept on the island of Siargao, Philippines, that combines our culinary roots —hence the name— with the lessons learned throughout our international experience, all while using Filipino ingredients.

This project was born in 2023, a year after I graduated with a Master’s Degree in World Food Cultures and Mobility from the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo (UNISG). After several years working at the highest level in gastronomy and hospitality, my partners and I had the desire to create something of our own. We wanted a project that embraced not only the interdisciplinary approach we had learned at Central, in Peru, where we met working but also one that was aware of the impact it generates from its very origin. Over the course of our careers, we have become increasingly conscious of the negative consequences that the restaurant industry can have in environmental, social, and economic terms.

It was then that we realized that the diversity of our professional profiles gave us the tools to do something different. Our team includes two chefs, an anthropologist, a hotelier/restaurateur, a storyteller, and a designer (myself). This combination of profiles was seen by us as a powerful tool to impact beyond the gastronomic experience itself. Thus began the formation of what are now Roots and Casa Kaos.

Our idea became a dream, and that dream grew into a healthy obsession that eventually materialized in September 2023, always with the vision of regenerating gastronomy through an interdisciplinary approach. Much of this vision was shaped by the lessons I learned during my time in the Master’s program. It was at Pollenzo where I deepened my understanding of food as a central aspect of culture, history, and identity. I learned the importance of interdisciplinarity by studying the ingredients and culinary practices of a culture within its context, thanks to courses in anthropology, history, economics, and sustainability. This experience gave me a holistic perspective on what food really represents.

Reflecting on how to make the way we produce, distribute, and consume food more sustainable inspired the search for real solutions, always aligned with the values of Slow Food and its motto of “good, clean, and fair” food. All of this transformed the way I understood cooking, showing me that it is not only the work of the chef but the result of a collective effort. Behind every dish are the farmer, the fisherman, and all the people who make it possible for the ingredients to arrive at our kitchen.

This legacy of Slow Food has deeply permeated what we do at Roots and Casa Kaos. To achieve our vision of regenerating gastronomy with an interdisciplinary approach, our work is structured around two key pillars. The first is a methodology applied from three perspectives: Landscape Research, Landscape Interpretation, and Landscape in Dialogue. The second pillar is the purpose of generating a positive tangible economic, social, and environmental impact through our actions.

The influence of Slow Food values is evident in both pillars. We deeply value the connection between the land, the ingredients, and the importance of seasonality. This philosophy inspires us to adjust our menu daily, based on the freshest ingredients available at the market. Furthermore, we believe in the importance of maintaining a direct relationship with local producers. Getting to know personally those who grow and produce the ingredients we use allows us to build long-lasting, transparent relationships with no intermediaries. This connection not only helps us better understand their methods and the work they do but also allows us to learn the stories behind each product, something that is lost when working with middlemen.

Foraging, or the collection of wild ingredients, is also an essential part of our approach. Exploring and learning about ingredients that grow spontaneously allows us to revive forgotten or undervalued products and build knowledge about the foundation and immersion tool that the Ark of Taste of the Philippines has provided us, with 115 products already registered. This approach not only enriches our cooking but also fosters a deep respect for the local environment and biodiversity, highlighting the fundamental role of nature as a provider of inspiration and infinite resources.

As part of our methodology, we embark on immersion and research trips to different regions of the Philippines. These trips allow us to connect with the origin of the ingredients, learn about the territories where they are produced, and understand the traditions surrounding them. By directly visiting farmers, fishermen, and local communities, we not only learn about traditional cultivation and collection methods but also establish a deeper connection with the ingredients and the people behind them.

All of this impacts both the way we do things and the why behind it. That is why, when we had the opportunity, we began collaborating with Slow Food Negros. This collaboration arose from the desire to firsthand experience the excellent work they do and learn from them in order to inspire the creation of a similar movement in Siargao. In just four years, Slow Food Negros has managed to create a movement that involves actors of all sizes, both public and private, and is rapidly advancing toward its goal of turning Negros Island into the first organic island in the Philippines. The relationship has just begun, but it looks promising.

The collaboration with Slow Food Negros led to an invitation for us to participate in Terra Madre Visayas 2024, the Filipino counterpart of Terra Madre. During a week, we toured the island connecting with various links in the food chain: farmers, fishermen, restaurateurs, historians, among others. This immersion process was key to our participation in the inauguration of Terra Madre Visayas, where we showcased our gastronomic approach and the use of local ingredients: interpreting the landscape through the products used and the stories told. We also had the opportunity to present our model and its connection to the values promoted by Slow Food to a diverse audience made up of various actors from the food chain, hoping to inspire others to adopt approaches that prioritize “good, clean, and fair” practices.

The work ahead is demanding, but we are confident that with Slow Food Negros as an ally, we can drive our efforts to build a network of collaborators, including other restaurants and hotels on the island, who will join this vision and these principles, contributing to the regeneration of gastronomy and, with it, transforming our environment and our relationship with food.

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