Identità Golose 2017

Immigration effects in the world of gastronomy

Identità golose is one of Italy’s biggest events, hosting 91 chefs who come from all over the world to do what they do best: cooking incorporating a bit of talking. This year, the subject of the event was The Strength of Freedom: the Journey.

I had the great opportunity to speak with two highly appreciated chefs, not by chance, women, talking mainly about travels they have done and how it affected their cooking style. I realized during the interviews how much the event’s subject is connected to one of the world’s current issues: immigration.

chef Andrea Dopico – ® Adrián Egea

Andrea Dopico Cafarelli

Venezuelan 26 year-old chef, with only two years experience in the kitchen and already included in Forbe’s list of the 30 most influential under 30 year-olds in Europe. Now working at the two-starred restaurant moments as a pastry chef, located at the luxury hotel chain Mandarin Oriental [city].

Talking about the immigration issue, she remembers that a trip to Vancouver (Canada) was a very scientific moment for her; acknowledging that this country is known for its high immigration rate (mostly coming from Philippines and India) she says:

“They are not creating a fusion cuisine, they are just bringing their way of cooking, their techniques and their ingredients from their own country into the game, it’s creating  a kind of a melting pot”.

chef Andrea Dopico – ® Adrián Egea

She seems to be excited talking about changes and effects from the outside and how they are connected to her creations:

“Sometimes I cook without thinking why and how I use a certain product, but in the moment I think about it and try to translate the dish I do realize where the ideas came from. It’s surprising, that subconsciously you can bring your experience in form of a new creation on a plate”. 

chef Mariana  Müller – ® Identità Golose

Mariana Müller

Chef and owner of Cassis, a successful family restaurant which is located in Bariloche, Patagonia (Argentina).

The large extensive lands in Patagonia have attracted wide variety of immigrants coming mostly from  Central and Northern Europe: Germany and Switzerland. She says:

“Everybody [is] influenced from everything” [is] saying  Müller“whether  you are  traveling, or just  having a conversation with someone different than you-  [there are] coming new   ideas, recipes   and  histories”.

Müller  found herself  affected by the immigrants around her, and convinced that immigration effects in Europe are just a matter of time:

“Like in everything new, in the beginning there is a  fear of the unknown, but in the moment  one  tries  different food –  he    starts  to  get  used to it  and then things start to change.   Especially in Europe, where most of the immigrants nowadays are coming from the east with completely different flavors” 

chef Mariana  Müller – ® Identità Golose


If we look deeper to what is the impact of this issue to our modern cuisines, the influence of immigration can be compared to the effects that chefs have over traveling around the world. What interested me the most about this comparison is how the modern cuisines accept our new social situation and if is there any place for these kind of changes?

Both  chefs agree that the mentioned “melting pot” is a positive change that will excite us as  foodies:

” It will make the gastronomy better, unexpected and different than what we knew- you cannot expect to any ordinary food  when you arrive to a multicultural kitchen” says Cafarelli.

From a different perspective says Müller:

“The classic recipes and tradition are going to stay, but for sure the products and tastes will change eventually”

Returning to my former questions about the immigration effects in the world of gastronomy, I feel like there is an optimistic feeling around us, or should I say- between us.